Hello again! It’s time to share another chapter of my
journey. I’m continuing to learn a lot about myself, and figuring out how to
navigate everything more easily. There haven’t been hard lessons per se,
but they’ve certainly thrown kinks in my plans. But I’ll start at the beginning.
Since the last time we spoke, I went home for Christmas for
two weeks to celebrate the holidays with my family, I came back to Cuernavaca
for a few weeks, worked on building up my caseload a little bit and settled
back into a routine there (including morning walks and workouts with my host
mom and a thirty day yoga journey), then I left to Morelia, Michoacán for two
weeks to break out of my routine, explore different parts of the country, and
take the first of hopefully many trips to take advantage of my being here and
having such a flexible job! Putting that all together, I can’t believe it’s
only been six weeks. I feel like the last month and a half has provided me so
much variety and change that it feels like each piece took up more space in my
mind.
CHRISTMAS
Being back home was certainly wonderful. But it was also
strange. I still worked throughout, so I was back and forth to my grandparents’
house where I could use their internet and quiet to have my therapy sessions. I
also saw many family and friends, and had a wonderful time catching up with
everyone. But it was strange to be back, and feel somewhat out of place. It
wasn’t too cold, fortunately, but cold enough! And very busy visiting friends
and family. I realized just how much STUFF I have in my room that just clutters
things up and sort of created a sense of chaos for me. I spent most of my time with my grandparents
in between therapy sessions, and I am so grateful to them for letting me set up
camp in the basement, and for feeding me and looking at all my pictures from
Mexico! They are incredible, and I was so happy to be able to share my
experiences with them. Other than holidays, work, and friends and family, I
spent a lot of time being lazy!! It was a nice break, but by the end, I was
ready to get back to Cuernavaca and get into a routine and start my BIG chunk
of adventure.
CUERNAVACA
Arriving back in Cuernavaca, I felt like I was back home. I’ve
gotten quite used to being warm most of the time, and it was good to be back in
my “office” while I worked and have my own time and space back. I got into a
routine with Tere going to the nearby baseball stadium and getting our exercise
in the mornings! I started the 30 day yoga journey “HOME” from Yoga with Adrienne.
I took on more clients to build up my caseload since I finally settled in for a
while. And I walked, went to coffee shops, went to the market, and got back to
regular life. January 6, I got to celebrate the Epiphany with the Rosca de
Reyes. We shared the cake a few different times, and all together, I found
THREE dolls…so I’ll be bringing the tamales on February 2! It’s a fun
tradition, and I learned how to make the chocolate correctly, and that
you HAVE to drink chocolate with the Rosca…you definitely cannot have it with coffee.
I took a quick weekend trip to the Magic Town of Tepoztlan…I’ve been there before,
but it’s such a nice place to check out and relax. It’s busy and crowded
usually, but I took an afternoon to travel to a smaller down up the mountain,
San Juan Tlacotenco, and hiked on a less popular trail. It was wonderful to get
outside and enjoy the views and the fresh air. I’m so happy that I made that
trip! However, the highlight of these few weeks was bringing home a new
kitten!! Jorge picked him up a few days before I left for Morelia, and he was just
the MOST fun to play with and snuggle and watch as he figured out how to walk
and run and explored around the house. (I can’t wait to get back and play with
him and see how much he’s grown!)
MORELIA, MICHOACÁN
After settling back into Cuernavaca, I began planning my trip
to Michoacán. Why Michoacán?? I really don’t know…it seemed like a good place to
start. It’s close enough to Cuernavaca that I could take a couple-week trip,
and if it was terrible, I could go back easily! Also, the BUTTERFLIES!!! I don’t
know if you knew this, but the monarch butterflies hibernate in the mountains
of Michoacán in the winter. There are THOUSANDS of butterflies in sanctuaries
across eastern Michoacán and western Mexico State. So I settled on Morelia, the
capital city of Michoacán, and found an Airbnb near the town center, and was
off! I planned a two week trip, but didn’t have too much more of a plan aside from
that! I arrived at 8am Saturday, January 18 after an overnight bus trip. And it
was so cold!! I wandered around the city for a while (it was not really ‘open’
yet) until I was able to enter my Airbnb. I was quite tired, so aside from wander
around the streets and begin to learn the layout of the city, I didn’t do much.
But this city is so beautiful!! The city center is completely made up of 16th
and 17th century Baroque architecture so you just feel like you’ve
gone back in time. Many of the buildings have been preserved inside as well, so
walking through the museums and restaurants and even businesses you can see the
remnants of that era. There are lots of churches, ex-convents, and wealthy peoples’
homes that make up the downtown streets. Sunday I walked around a little more,
and made my way down one street to the aqueduct that is still standing! This is
quite a famous structure around Mexico, and speaks to the uniqueness of this
town and how it came to be. I also wandered through a few museums about Jose
Maria Morelos y Pavon, the namesake of this town (and the state in which Cuernavaca
resides). He was born here, and was a hero of the Mexican Revolution. Walking around
his birthplace and home, I resolved to learn more about that part of Mexican
history to understand a little more about how this country evolved.
Once Monday began, I got to work, setting up a small office
space for myself inside my bedroom at the Airbnb, and was pretty busy with
sessions. By the time I finished with sessions Thursday afternoon, I was
feeling VERY isolated, and was ready to get out and talk to people! I got back
on Tinder (I know, Mom!) and was able to match with a few people that I could
hang out with and take suggestions from about what to do and where to go in
Morelia. This two-week trip was really a lesson in how to make friends and find
a balance between spending time with people and spending time alone. Sometimes
I just need to talk!! So I ended up having a good night socializing a little bit!
Then Friday I had my favorite day of these two weeks…I went on a tour to view
the Monarch butterflies! We took a few hour drive into the mountains, originally
the territory of the Purepecha indigenous group and still the home of many from
this group, and arrived at the
Santuario Rosario. Just being up in the mountains,
with blue skies and fresh air, away from city sounds and smells, was an
incredible experience. There was a chill in the air, but the sun was shining
strong. Our group, led by Giovanni, rode horses up the mountain, then walked a
little further (very quietly, so as not to disturb the monarchs) to see the
thousands of monarchs hanging in the trees all around. They weren’t too close,
but you could see what looked like some type of sack hanging off different
places on the pine trees…this was the butterflies, hanging off the trees and
off each other. When the sun was bright, more butterflies would begin to fly
around, but when the clouds thickened a bit, they slowed down and closed up to
keep warm. It was an incredible sight, and the pictures don’t do it justice.
After a while looked at the butterflies, we hiked back down the mountain to the
parking lot. The hike was just as wonderful as the horse ride up, with plenty
of time to stop and look around, and breath in the mountain air and look at all
the plants and trees that were around. When we got back down to the parking
lot, we sat and ate at one of the small kitchens, and I tried some blue
tortillas! Delicious! After sitting and enjoying the afternoon sun for a while,
we loaded back into the van and headed back down the mountain back to Morelia.
With one more stop at an overlook with the most incredible view (I seriously just
wanted to stay there forever) we made it back to Morelia, and I went back to
the Airbnb to prepare for the next day’s adventure. (After visiting, I learned
that there is actually a lot of illegal logging that takes place in this area,
and environmentalists risk their lives to protect this land. One of the leaders
of this movement was missing while I was there, and his body was just found.
Take a look at
this
article to learn more.)
Saturday, I was very excited to go off on my own. A few
people gave me some tips about how to get to Pátzcuaro, the Pueblo Mágico
closest to Morelia, and things that I should do there. When I arrived, I went straight
to the lake, and they had boats that took you to the island. This was so fun!!
I loved being on the water and listening to the live music that was being
played for entertainment on the boat. We arrived at Janitzio, a little island
in the middle of the lake, and I began climbing! There’s a walkway that takes you
straight up the little hill that is the island, up to the statue of Morelos at
the top. It cost 10 pesos to enter the monument area, and then you are able to
climb up the center of the statue to his fist, and look out over the lake. It
was quite fun! After an elote and Jarra Loca and some time enjoying the views,
I started back down to the water, but I took the long way, walking around the perimeter
of the island, away from all the artisan vendors, and took in some more quiet sights.
It was getting to be later in the afternoon, and I wanted to see Patzcuaro,
too, so I boarded the boat to go back to the mainland, and took the bus to the center
of Patzcuaro. They have a gorgeous plaza, and lots of nice restaurants surrounding.
I didn’t have much time here, but I knew I could come back another day. So I
ate dinner, and then headed back down to the taxis back to Morelia. Saturday
evening, I attended the show at the Cathedral. Every Friday night, La
Leyenda de la Catedral is put on at the cathedral. It’s a light and
firework show that I HAD to see. It was very brief, but so fun! The street was
shut down in front of the cathedral, with couples, families, and friends
anticipating the show. All the lights shut down leading up to 9pm, and then
over the loudspeaker, a voice shares details about the cathedral itself, and
then a song begins about Morelia and the cathedral, with the accompanying
fireworks and light show. It was very fun, and after a long couple days, I was glad
to go home to bed rather quickly, as the show was brief.
Sunday I left on another tour, and by then I was feeling
quite tired. I tagged along on another groups tour, and we went to Tingambato,
an archeological site, Parque Nacional E. Ruiz, and stopped in Lake Zirahuen
for a late lunch before returning back to Morelia. The archeological site was
interesting, and I learned it’s one of MANY in Michoacán, the majority of which
are yet uncovered. The national park was gorgeous, preserved natural springs and
waterfalls, as well as some manmade structures which direct the water in
certain ways, allowing for photo ops and fun sights and sounds. It was crowded,
but very beautiful! Finally, lunch at the peaceful Lake Zirahuen brought the
day together. I tried small breaded fish called charalitos, and although
they were not my preference, I didn’t get sick!! It was a victory considering
the last two times I ate something crunchy like that! It was a very peaceful
place, and I later learned that you can go kayaking on this lake! So I decided
I wanted to come back…more on that later! Sunday night, I just relaxed once
again and got ready for the workweek, and soaked in all the adventure. Honestly,
I was pretty ready to go back to Cuernavaca at this point, but I rededicated
myself to experiencing as much as I could while I was here, and made a plan to
gather more information throughout the week so that I could take advantage of
the following weekend.
The workweek was slow. After a busy day Monday, I had a lot
of downtime the rest of the week. I was able to take advantage of the downtime
and do some of the shopping that I wanted to do in Morelia before I left. I
also was able to hunt down information about how to get back to Lake Zirahuen
on my own. And when I say hunt down, I really mean it! It was hard to find
people who knew how to get there using buses or colectivos, but eventually I
was able to get the information I needed and prepared myself for Friday. I
really enjoyed the week overall, because I got to walk around the city quite a
bit searching for this information, and I spent some time just sitting and
reading in the plaza as well. I was grateful for this mental break and downtime,
and that I could get out of my room.
On Thursday, I decided to head back to Patzcuaro after my
therapy sessions that day. I took my time looking through the shops and
visiting the churches and ex-convents – this town has similar architecture to
Morelia – and made a few purchases from the artisans (cloth napkins were my
favorite purchase…I know I’ll use them and they are so fun and colorful – and I
met the artisan himself!). It was a relaxing day, followed by a quick trip to
sample some local craft beer in Morelia. Friday morning I headed out to
Patzcuaro once again, with a final destination of Lake Zirahuen. After all the different
transfers to different buses, the trip took about three hours. I didn’t know
exactly where I was going in Lake Zirahuen, so I asked someone on the bus who
lives there if she knew where I could rent a kayak. She told me where to get
off the bus, and at this point I was feeling so many things: stress at the long
trip, anxiety at catching the bus back and not leaving too late, and a little trepidation
about being in a small town that’s exactly touristy at this time of year. I
stopped into a small restaurant on the side of the road, and the owner talked
with me for a while and made me some tostadas de pescado. He told me where to
go to rent a kayak, and I nervously set out, with a plan to return to this
restaurant to pay the man, because he couldn’t break my 500 peso bill and that’s
all I had! I walked along the road, keeping an eye on the lake, and found
someone who had some kayak, but the real shallow ones that you ride on top. It
wasn’t exactly warm out, and I would have gotten very wet, so he took me out on
a rowboat instead so I could float around for a bit. As much as this wasn’t the
experience I really wanted (I really wanted to be out on the lake alone) I very
much appreciated the beauty of the lake and the mountains in the background,
and the quiet time that this little town offered. After a just-long-enough boat
ride, I sat on the dock for a while, then made my way back to the restaurant
(having broken my big bill) and paid the owner and sat for a while until the
bus came. After a somewhat emotionally tense day, I was on my way back to
Patzcuaro, then Morelia, to enjoy the evening with a friend and decompress. But
thank goodness, I was able to decompress…we went dancing!! The place we went
played Cumbia, which is probably something I have danced the least, so he taught
me how to dance and we had a great time! It ended up being a really great day in
spite of my emotional state.
So now it’s Saturday. I am travelled out. My bus doesn’t
leave Morelia until 10:45 tonight, so I could have done something more today,
but I just don’t have the emotional energy. So here I am, sitting in a coffee
shop, and taking the opportunity to process my trip. All in all, I think it was
a good first trip. I learned a lot, and I will definitely do things a little
differently next time, but I did have such a good time, and I feel great that I
took the opportunity to venture around.
LESSONS LEARNED
When I first came to Mexico back in October, I intended to
stay in Cuernavaca for a month or two, but then move to a different state each
month to really have time to get to know as much as I could. I changed my plan,
and I am SO GLAD that I did. After two weeks in a new place, I am so ready to
go back to something I know is comfortable for me with people that I feel very
comfortable with. And if I didn’t have that, I don’t think I would make it…I
would be booking a flight back home. But Cuernavaca has become home, and I’m so
grateful for the people that make it that way! All in all, I am not cut out for
being an ungrounded traveler. In these two weeks, I felt very disconnected, and
my go-to reaction to that is to keep to myself and stay in my room. That’s not
a very good way to get more comfortable, but that’s my reaction. I did yoga every
day, which helped me connect with myself and not go to crazy, but not being
able to really cook for myself, getting comfortable with a new living space
with new people and a new kitchen, and getting used to a new city and figuring
out where to exercise, grocery shop, etc. offered quite the challenge. It was
easy enough to exercise, but I only did it once. It was hard for me to get up
in the morning, and I found that I was very tired much of the time. I also didn’t
plan my time very well. Ultimately, two weeks was too long. I would have been
better off going for two full weekends and just one week in between, but not
knowing what to expect and not doing very much research beforehand, I tried to
give myself enough time, and didn’t use it wisely. Another lesson…I don’t like
tours. My trip to the butterfly sanctuary was amazing, but the trip to the
national park and Tingambato was less so. I enjoy myself much more when I can
go at my pace and take my time with things, exploring what I find interesting,
and leaving behind what I don’t. That said, some things are very difficult to
get to by public transit (which I learned on my Lake Zirahuen adventure) and
its very nice to be on a tour with a guide that can navigate everything and share
about the surroundings. All in all, some experiences are better with a tour,
some are better alone, and sometimes you just need to spread out the adventures
because you’ll feel overwhelmed regardless! Again, we come back to research.
Researching beforehand what experiences you’d like to have, and then figuring
out which are feasible through personal travel and which are best on a guided
tour may be a better way to prepare and get the most out of your trip. Finally,
CHECK THE WEATHER. For the record, I DID!! But I didn’t pay attention to the lows
overnight, just that it got up to 70 during the day. And my Airbnb was not very
warm. So sometimes I stayed in my room and didn’t want to go out at night
because it was just too darn cold, and because I tried to pack light, I didn’t
have the clothes I needed to make myself more comfortable. This is something
that would have made my entire trip MUCH more enjoyable. Lastly, making friends
through Tinder turned out to be very effective for me, but I can see how that
might not work out the same every time. Overall, next time I would like to
prepare more for the trip, have the least amount of workdays possible in a new
place, and be more disciplined in getting up and exercising in the morning
rather than hiding in bed, and packing adequately for unpredictable weather.
If you’re still reading, you’re so sweet!! I didn’t think I
needed to blog so frequently, but apparently I have a lot to say. Overall, this
adventure is still such a good thing for me, and I’m having an amazing, eye
opening experience as I learn more about myself and about Mexico. And my Spanish
is getting SO much better!! I don’t know what’s next for me in life yet, but I’m
going to Mexico City next weekend, and meeting Dawn and Claudia in Oaxaca in
March. Other than that, I’ll just keep trucking!! I’ll see you all in April
when I’m back in the states for Erica’s wedding. I love you all and thank you
times a million for all the support, interest in what I’m doing, and the ongoing
thoughts and prayers. I feel them! Reach out to me!! I would love to hear from
you. Have a great February💗